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Las Palmas Mexican Cuisine
55792 29 Palms Highway
Yucca Valley, CA 92284
(760)369-7164
The sun is setting, turning the traffic golden on Route 62 in Yucca Valley as the work week comes to an end at last. It’s Friday night in this working class town, and right now, there’s no place in town that feels more like a TGIF party in progress than inside Las Palmas.
This unassuming, comfortable restaurant is filled with couples and families relaxing with friends, family, and good food, while the Jarocho Kings, Ricardo and Mardonio Vasquez, keep the party going with their large repertoire of lively harp and guitar music. Sometimes the Vasquez brothers are joined by other musicians for the evening, and once in a while, someone having dinner at Las Palmas will take a turn singing their favorite song with the musicians—from their table.
Arturo Patricio, who opened Las Palmas in 2001, takes care of whoever, and whatever, needs to be taken care of, moving from taking to-go orders over the telephone, to bringing out armfuls of dishes from the kitchen, destined for a waiting table. He and his staff work hard taking care of the Friday night crowd, but always, it seems, with a smile. His laid-back friendly demeanor belies the professionalism that keeps his customers returning.
Sometimes, sitting in a booth by the window, relaxing with a nice cold margarita on the rocks and the best guacamole and chips in town, while music, laughter, and conversation—in Spanish and English—fills the air, it feels more like a family get together instead of a restaurant. My favorite restaurants—anywhere in the world—tend to often have this quality. They tend to be of manageable size, independent, and they make you feel at home. That last quality tends to be found more among Europeans and Latinos who run restaurants than in the giant corporate chains where everything from the food to the décor can seem sterile and uninteresting. And while the décor at Las Palmas will probably not win any awards, take in the whimsical artwork of Richard Hunter on the restaurant’s walls.
At Las Palmas, the food tends to have a homemade feel to it, and it should—everything is made from scratch. No fish sticks in the fish tacos here—generous tilapia filets instead. A half order of their guacamole does well for a starter with the freshly made salsa and chips. As with any restaurant, I have my favorites, from the spicy shrimp in the Camarones a la Diabla, to the Pescado Entomatado—a fresh tilapia filet sautéed with jalapenos and tomatoes, the fish tacos to carnitas, carne asada, and a tasty chile relleno. The fajitas are always a delight, and the Campechana seafood cocktail, with shrimp, octopus, and abalone, is a cool treat on a hot day, as is the chicken avocado salad with jalapeno vinaigrette dressing (I am told some customers order the dressing to take home). Portions tend to be generous, with prices quite moderate. The popular Bistec a la Mexicana is next up on my list to try, a beef stew cooked with tomatoes, onions, and Serrano chiles. Leave room for flan, if you can. It’s worth it.
The specials are always worth a try—with some dinner specials Monday through Thursday running only $5.95. Saturday and Sunday you can get Menudo, and Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., there is a large Mexican buffet. Bring your appetite.
There is a children’s menu, and Las Palmas can handle groups up to 50 or so. In fact, there is a side patio at the restaurant that has hosted wedding receptions and other special events outdoors.
The beer selection is complementary, as is the number of tequilas available, and there is chabelas, the mixture of beer, clamato, and spices that actually goes down well on a hot day. Happy hour is 4 to 6 p.m., Monday through Thursday.
The Jarocho Kings perform Friday, 6 to 9 p.m., and during the Sunday brunch, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. While they can perform the obligatory gringo/tourist kind of songs for those who ask, or don‘t know what to ask for, the Vasquez brothers are very good musicians, and it is worth asking them to just play something they enjoy that you have never heard before.
My favorite music from the Jarocho Kings are the older ballads they do, with their beautiful harmonies, and upbeat songs featuring dazzling harp solos by Ricardo. One tip: If you’re looking for quiet conversation, you’ll want to sit further away from the music. Though they are entirely acoustic, they can be a very high energy act. Friday nights can get quite loud sometimes, so if you are in the mood for a quieter evening out, try another night.
When dinner is over, and the sun has long since set, the family get-together continues until all are full and sated. A lot of patrons are obviously regulars, waving heartfelt goodbyes to Arturo and his staff when they head out into the night. They’ll be back—look for them next Friday night.
From the October/November 2007 issue.